Thursday, December 3, 2015

THE WALK TO BACOLOD - BINALBAGAN TO HINIGARAN



Around the second week of August 2012, the kids had been living in my house a total of four months.  From the start we had this minor language barrier in the fact they knew too little English while I knew too little Cebuano.  Still, we were managing a basic form of communication without resorting to sign language or symbols.  Most of the time, Diana would be the translator, but by this time, they were becoming more accustomed to English…..at least more so than I was to Cebuano.  We had been discussing the walk across Iowa that Brad and I had done in 2003 and again in 2004.  Clarisse and Toy thought it was cool and thus I subtly suggested we could walk from Binalbagan to Bacolod as a family.  Toy and Clarisse thought that was a great idea whereas Santiago said nothing.  Five year Charissa Mae was all for walking the “distance”, but I knew after a kilometer she would be whining that someone would need to carry her, so she was not a consideration.

We discussed possible dates and finally settled on the following Monday (A long holiday weekend), a mere handful of days away.  There would be no practice walks in preparation and furthermore, the children had not a clue what real distance was.  In their minds, that trek would only take a couple of hours at the most and they definitely had no idea how long twelve kilometers was. 

Which brings me to the story of my father and me walking to Webster City, Iowa (a distance of twenty-four miles) in the summer of 1962.  I was ten years old at that time and I had always told my forty-eight year old father that since it only took us thirty minutes to travel by car from our home in Fort Dodge to grandma’s house in Webster City that I was quite sure we could easily walk it in a few hours or maybe even three.  Man, was I naïve then.  In September of that year, we made the trek and it took us the entire day to reach grandma’s home.  What I remembered most about that trip was that my feet burned.  I tried to cool them off in a stream that passed under the gravel road we were walking upon, but it didn’t help.  My father, being the stronger person, never ever commented on what aches and pains he had to have encountered from that jaunt.  After I had grown up and had children of my own, I tried for years to get my two oldest sons to walk with me to Webster City, but they were relatively street wise and always declined.  Finally in 1979, my fourteen year old niece Alaire took up the offer and lasted all the way to Duncombe, Iowa (about twelve miles) before backing out, which required me to complete the walk without her.  In my youthful years I roamed the land out of curiosity as well as an adventure into the unknown, but after I had matured, walking to those distant locations would become a challenge to me.  However, I am digressing from the tale at hand.

I stressed to the family that on Monday we needed to be walking to the bus stop by 5:30 a.m., but I kept forgetting that this country (as well as my adopted children) operated on Philippine Time and not an

The family ready to ride the bus to Binalbagan

actual schedule.  Hence we were off by 6:45 a.m. and aboard a transport a little after 7:00 a.m.  Now, I don’t know about the kids, but I for one was excited.  It wasn’t the undertaking which drove me that day as it was the opportunity to share a new experience with my Filipino Children.  Well, not all of the children was happy.  I realize now that Santiago only went along because of his older brother and sister, and as I review the photos taken that day, you could see that he was determined not to have a good time.  Or perhaps, his mind was set that way.

We arrived in Binalbagan at around 7:45 a.m. and started our group walk from there.  We took side streets through the town, avoiding highway traffic until reaching the eastern edge.  From there we walked single file like a line of ducks with mama duck in the lead, papa duck in the rear and the ducklings in between, bodies bobbing and weaving as we ambled along the shoulder of the busy highway.  The skies were partly cloudy as we started out that day, however there were to be lengthy periods when we glided along under a cloudless canopy of blue, giving the sun an opportunity to scorch our little clan mercilessly. 

The first two kilometers seemed effortless, but it was already hot and humid or just plain uncomfortable as we reached the Welcome to

The family at the mini-plaza at Binalbagan

Binalbagan mini-plaza at the edge of town.  Toy, Clarisse, and Diana were all in good spirits as we walked up the steps to the concrete platform.  However, I knew we might be in trouble as soon as Santiago grumbled, “Are we there yet?”  If the look on his face of dissatisfaction was noticeable in Himamaylan City, it was downright spiteful at hearing we had only begun. 

I motioned Diana to the side and hinted to her that she might have to quit the walk and at some point take Santiago home on the bus.  She looked at Santiago for a few moments and then turned to me. 

“He will make it.  He may complain, but he won’t quit,” she softly replied.

Sometimes, a mother knows the capabilities of her children better than anyone.  Before the family had moved to Himamaylan, I had a discussion with their mother, Diana, about Santiago.  You see, that child was a little strong willed, and he really loved living in Owak and especially loved to fish there.  So, one evening I confessed that I felt the kids would easily adapt to their new life on the island of Negros, but I feared that Santiago would not last a year and ask to be returned to Cebu and live with his grandparents.  What I didn’t consider was the cohesiveness of this quartet.  They had survived life, by banding together as a close knit unit and where one went, all was sure to follow. 

After about fifteen minutes, we formed our single file line again and started moving along the highway toward Hinigaran.  This was the test that would challenge the unity of our little group. 


The road heading out of Binalbagan

The terrain during the first six kilometers was flat with only a couple rises where there existed bridges.  The hikers were light on their feet with Toy and Clarisse teasing each other as they all looked about them at the changes in the scenery for the first time.  In this part of Negros, Sugar Cane was King whereas in Cebu, rice fields dominated. 

The air was becoming stagnant as the morning progressed.  Old Sol was playing his part well during this stretch with no clouds to impede his demonic habit of burning the already tanned skin of these sojourners.   The Binalbagan River, less than two kilometers from its outlet into the Sulu Sea, was a murky brown as our quintet cautiously crossed on a narrow ledge.  Although traffic was relatively light that day, a couple of semi’s roared over the concrete span taking little notice or heed to our “family line” which hung to the railing for stability as well as safety

Back on the grassy siding once again, we rounded a curve and began our three kilometer stretch through open land, bordered by

A flat and endless road

seemingly endless fields of sugar cane.  To the left of us was a path which paralleled the highway and had once been the railway used to transport sugar cane from the fields to the plants.  Now, it rested idly under a layer of grass along with the intermittent nipa built atop its neglected ballast.  Farmers would occasionally tie their Carabao (Water Buffalo) atop that rail bed as there was plenty of vegetation and were a safe distance from the nearby highway.  After we passed the last Nipa, Toy decided to walk that long abandoned line.  Since it was littered with Carabao flops (dung), he called out that we no longer had to go to Goldilocks to buy birthday cakes as there were plenty here!  And with that, he would find one and say, “Happy Birthday to you Ate (Aw-tay (which means older sister), “ or “Here is a Carabao Cake for you Santiago.”  In fact, we were all told that our cakes awaited us when the time came. 

Our first rest stop was two more kilometers down the road at a waiting shade that I had used quite often.  It was situated atop the old rail bed and surrounded by sugar cane.  Although it was hot, the shade provided some relief from the relentless sun, who waited with delight for our band of hapless victims to re-emerge from the cooling shade of the shelter and back into the searing light of day

A little further on I noticed that a dark rain cloud was situated a little more than a kilometer ahead of us and I could clearly see a heavy downpour ahead as we continued up the road.  In a way I was glad to see the rain as it would cool us off for a bit, but it would also leave us drenched as well as very uncomfortable when the sun finally returned.  Yet, as we got within a couple hundred meters of that wet pavement, the raincloud mysteriously dissipated and was replaced by that fiery orb which had been tormenting us now for over an hour.  Rising steam created from the unrelenting sun quickly evaporated the water on the pavement making the moisture laden air even more humid.  I ultimately came to the conclusion that this overwhelming heat was going to plague us the rest of the way to our destination. 

The road eventually curved to the north as a line of shade trees, thick

Toy holding Pataluca flowers

shrubs, and bamboo homes gave us a little respite from the sun.  Flowers lined the road while curious heads both young and old


peered out the windows of their Nipas probably wondering why the old foreigner was walking with a bunch of youngsters.  Suddenly, the kids came across some unusual flowers and Diana asked the woman who was standing in the doorway of her home what their name was.  She replied that they were native flowers and called Portulaca. 

Inquisitive eyes of a youngster

While the two women briefly chatted, one of her youngsters peeked around the end of a bamboo fence; his eyes filled with inquisitiveness and perhaps a touch of fear as I snapped a picture with my camera. 





For the next couple of kilometers we walked within the shade of towering vegetation and palm trees.   The simple homes were set

Children crossing a bridge on the shaded portion of the walk

aback from the highway, their age being determined by the condition of the material.  An all bamboo structure will normally last between two and three years. If you mix in wood, perhaps a little longer.  If you are wealthy enough to afford at least a cement foundation and partial block wall, then the longevity is greatly enhanced.  Still, from what I could observe, the inhabitants seemed content with their station in life.  Sometimes when everyone is fated to live under the same conditions, then having little or nothing isn’t all that bad.  I am confident that my Filipino children could relate to those basic conditions, but they never commented to that fact.

From the start of this journey our quintet was quite lively, but by now the heat of the morning along with running out of bottled water was having its deteriorating effect on us all.  Talking had had become sparse and whereas the walking was rather animated at times, it now looked as if we had been transformed into a line of Zombies plodding down the highway (without outstretched arms).  At that moment, I think it had finally dawned on them that this was not just a walk to the market and back. 

Eventually, we returned to the land of bright sunlight and sugar cane fields and were now stopping at every waiting shade.  Whenever we

Locals at Sari Sari store staring at the foreigner & his family

happened upon a Sari Sari store, we inquired whether they had any bottled water.  To our disappointment, it was always the same reply, they only carried warm pop, beer, and Tanduay Rum.   I was surprised that those establishments did not have bottled water of any size for sale, but then I considered the economic situation of the local residents.  Alcohol and cigarettes were so inexpensive as well as so abundant that even the poorest could afford those addictive products.  I have constantly warned my Filipino children of the destructive ends those vices might have on their futures.  Still, in the end, I accept the fact that it will ultimately be up to them to decide what they feel is necessary in their lives….which may include drinking alcohol and smoking cigarettes and all of the hardships associated with it.

I will acknowledge that the last three kilometers were extremely challenging for me.  Without water, my desire to continue dropped

Pretty exhausted with less than three kilometers to go

dramatically.  The relentless sun smiled gleefully knowing that it was wearing down our little pack.  We were all becoming dehydrated as we progressively walked slower during that final stretch.  Idle conversations had ceased altogether, yet everyone continued to put one foot in front of the other as they eyed the line of shade trees in the near distance.  

What seemed like an inordinate length of time, the shade trees of Hinigaran came to our rescue, partially relieving us from our misery.  Curving around a corner, past the Hinigaran National High School and leading into the town, we came upon a water dispenser and broke out the pesos in the excitement of finding that life sustaining elixir.  How the dispenser worked was that you placed a small plastic baglet under the outlet, tossed in a peso coin and watched the chilled water empty from a bottled water container on the top of the machine.   Within minutes all of us were sated by the refreshing liquid.  Talking resumed as a somewhat lively spring returned to our legs.  We were finally less than a kilometer from our destination which was the Ceres Liner bus depot. 

In a very short time, we were sitting in seats at the depot awaiting

The journey has ended

our bus to arrive and carry us back home.  I bought us all ice cream drum sticks at the station and for the most part, they were excited about their accomplishment…..well all except for Santiago, who was not going to be happy about the adventure no matter what. 


During the evening meal, we talked about the walk.  Many good things were brought up, at the interesting sights each had witnessed.  I was amazed at the enthusiasm Toy and Clarisse showed in their observations.  However, Santiago said nothing.  He scowled at his plate of food as we talked energetically about the trek completed.  After a while, I asked the children if they wanted to continue the walk from Hinigaran to Pontevedra.  The conversation suddenly ceased.  Toy looked at Clarisse as Santiago continued staring down at the plate before him.   Again, I asked the three if they were up to hiking from Hinigaran to Pontevedra.    This time they all looked at me and then said in a low voice, in unison, “no”.  It seemed that this was more than enough adventure for my Filipino trio. 

For myself I learned several things about my adopted family from this sojourn between towns.  I have always written that I adopted the children, but in actuality, they had adopted me as their father.  When we first met, for whatever reason, they had determined right then and there that I was going to be their papa.  Those children had no ulterior motive or agenda, it was just that they had found a papa with which they could give complete love and trust to.   They sensed… no, they knew from the very beginning I would not abandon them….and they were right.  It has been that way from the very beginning and I know….I know, that it will be that way until the end of my days. When we hiked to Hinigaran, we didn’t do it as three children, their mother, and the foreigner, but it was done as a single unit.  As a complete family and what was more amazing was that they never gave up.  Even when I began to falter due to the heat, they were there to support as well as encourage their papa to continue on.  In the beginning, I was the leader and figurehead, but as we neared the end, Toy and Clarisse made sure one of them was by my side the last kilometer into town.  Families can be strong with a good bond between all of its members or families can be weak with no guidance or reason to gravitate toward the center.  I am proud to say that this is a super glued family as it should always be.

Bounder…

December 4, 2015























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